1997 Marcassin Pinot Noir

1997 Marcassin Pinot Noir - drank over dinner at Wine Spectator's Greystone.  Pretty good stuff.  Nose of toffee, coffee, vanilla, a bit of smoked meats, also glycerin, sweet red fruits.  A bit spicy on the palate.  While this wine does not "wow" me, the structure is definitely there, and one will need to wait another 5-10 years until it matures.  But can we resist the temptation to drink it?  Will need to keep my bottle of '96 out of my reach...